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Note 44.103 MOUNT-L 103 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 28 lines 4-MAY-1992 16:04 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 28 lines 4-MAY-1992 16:04 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 01-May-1992 Posted-date: 01-May-1992 Phil- last summer I was up in the N.Cascades on Mt. Baker and Mt. Challenger(in the Pickets). I can't remember which side of Baker is which, but I climbed on both sides actually. From the more commonly climbed side, it's really not too difficult. We had set camp around 6000' and had a pretty straight-forward climb up. I can think of only one place that was exposed, and there was no ice so this is probably not the North ridge. The other side was a lot more intens e. It's all cake up to the bergschrund, and then it gets fun. The first major obstacle was a section of steep, EXPOSED snow leading above the berg. The snow was really soft and self-arresting was out of the question. LOTS of protectio n is the key! (Of course, this depends on the time of year, temp etc...) Right above this section was the ice that I think you're talking about. It was moderately exposed and not too steep, but the ice quality was poor. It was that granular stuff that looks like road salt UGH! A lot of places were pretty slippery, and arresting was difficult as one guy found out! A couple of ice screws would not be a bad idea, although if you're experienced on ice, you may not need them. Climbing from this side can take a long time, and it would be good to camp high or leave nice and early! If the weather is nice though, it's a beauiful climb with lots of scenery. I loved it! Hope you enjoy the trip! Pat PS-if you want info on the Challenger area, write me back. I'd be glad to blab more...
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