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Note 44.269 MOUNT-L 269 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 88 lines 3-DEC-1993 07:51 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 88 lines 3-DEC-1993 07:51 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subj: Climbing Grand: after thoughs Date: 02-Dec-1993 Posted-date: 02-Dec-1993 I am glad that so many people have enjoy my account of our Grand Teton climbing trip. I see it has been inspiring for many and has touched some in the right place. There is a few things that I think I should have included, for which I was criticized. Several people wrote me saying that we were asking for avalanche disaster. It's true that there was a real danger, but we tried to minimize it, by picking good lines. Also, most places the snow was either sluffing or piling up. There were some places that concerned me greatly. We did a good job of avoided those spots. Also, We talked to several local climbers (real climbing bum types) before and after the trip and they agreed that the avalanche danger could be/was present but manageable. I certainly no expert at access the risk of avalanche, and an expert would have had to been there to really know what's going on. So, all I can say for others is that we took a very unknown risk of getting caught in an avalanche. For some reason many though that we were cold in our bags the last night and should have used VBL's. This was not true. My bag was dry on the inside and Alex's bag did keep him warm, just not as warm as it should. He should problably use a VBL for such cold and wet weather. Alex has over 250 nights experience with his bag so I am not going to tell him to do anything different. He likes down and I am not going to argue. On my using a VBL, First I didn't expect it to get that cold. Second I had no problem staying warm in my synthetic -30 bag. In fact I was sweating at times. The inside of my bag was dry, but the outside had all the condensed and frozen moisture from my body and stuff I was drying out. Third, I sleep somewhat warm which means I perspire. I would be miserable in a VBL. I have tried to sleep somewhat cool but I get a poor night's sleep and that kill my usefulness the next day. I will stick to synthetic bag designed to transfer moisture out. My Tangerine Dream is a dream in that regard. I must admit that I will try a VBL, mabey first in our eviromental chamber here at IU. That way I can be in -20 air or bail in 10 seconds. The reason I bring up the bag problems is that we could have frozen to death if problem with the bags were serious. Joel wrote this and I replied: Joel: > Willie...have you ever heard that hypoxia affects CNS function? > Sounds like you learned some interesting lessons...and may have been > lucky not to have learned several more. Disney world it aint and > climbing/at night/in a blizzard/on unfamiliar routes etc etc??? Doesnt > sound like the neurons were all firing! I hope there is a moral to > this story... cuz otherwize you might just be crazy! Willie: (Joel recieved the epilogue.) Joel: > Well, I certainly love a good debate and I guess you and I have > started one! Dont take my comments too personal...I do know your > level of preparedness and...fitness. What I dont know is everyone > else out there with thoughts of invincibility. (dont have time to > correct my spelling). Someone has to play my role...right? No hard > feelings? Willie: Don't take me wrong. I wasn't debating. I intended to post a follow up anyway. I wanted to explain a few things that I thought people would fine interestering. I didn't occurs to me that people on this group might have thoughts of invincibility. I certainly didn't think we were invincible. I would say the the risk of freezing to death was significant. There were a few other hazards but the cold was my primary concern for our safety. It was an insane trip done by insane people. Anyway, my hope here is to explain that we did take risks of death that we accepted not fully understanding them. Could anyone? Willie Hunt
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