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Note 44.294 MOUNT-L 294 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 108 lines 24-JAN-1994 09:17
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 108 lines 24-JAN-1994 09:17
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Subj: Mt. Assiniboine Matterhorn of the Canadian Rockies

Date: 22-Jan-1994
Posted-date: 22-Jan-1994

----------------------Phil Watts questions-----------------
Subject: Mt. Assiniboine

Has anyone out there been in to Mt. Assiniboine (??) in Western Canada.
I would appreciate information concerning the access hike and the North
Ridge summit route. I have the Selected Climbs In The Canadian Rockies
book, but would like some first-hand opinions. Specifically: Can the
hike to the hut area be made in a day with a relatively light load? Are
there bivy sites in the hut area? Is the route reasonably safe or
continuously falling apart? Thanks!
Send to FAPW@NMUMUS Phil Watts
-------------------end of Phil's questions-----------------

I can answer most of your questions. I made a summit attempt on Mt.
Assiniboine about a decade ago and found it to be one of the most
rewarding climbs, even though we never made the summit. The approaches
from the east side, as Jason Wilder pointed out, are the shortest by
far. We drove out of Canmore, Alberta, just south of Banff, up the
Spray Lakes Reservoir road (mostly dirt road then) the long 25-mile+
to the earthen dam, which we drove on across and continued as far as
the rough road beyond the dam we could safetly position ourselves. We
didn't have a four-wheel drive vehicle so couldn't go as far as those
who did. Some vehicles drove as much as two miles beyond our farthest
point. We hiked in via Assiniboine Pass and came out via Wonder Pass,
Wonder Pass definitely the most scenic with gorgeous Marvel Lake sprawling
a thousand or two feet below you. We had heavy loads so took two days
getting into Lake Magog. I believe that if you could drive the maximum
distance past the earth dam and took a lighter load, you would be able
to get to the cabins by Lake Magog in one day. This presumes you're in
good shape. It would surely be more comfortable to spread the journey
out over a couple of days. If you're going to do the approach in one
day, I recommend taking Wonder Pass, not Assiniboine Pass, which is
longer, though you may have to gain more altitude that way - no problem
if you have a lighter load.

Mt. Assiniboine is beauteous to behold. It truly has well-earned the
title "The Matterhorn of Canada." The reflections of the mountain
and its surrounding mountains in Lake Magog, particularly early in the
morning and evening, is breath-taking. I have some excellent photos of
those out-of-this-world reflection settings.

We camped on the west side of Magog Lake right at the tree line, to the
right of the trail as you would be travelling if you continued on to
climb the peak. We found fresh water coming off the high slopes beyond
the south end of Lake Magog on the right of the trail leading to the hut,
actually just off and above the trail. If you approach via Assiniboine
Pass, the shelter on the flats has a drinking fountain which I deemed
to be unsafe to drink. You could see little creatures swimming around
in your clear plastic water bottles. There is a sign there warning you the
water is potentially bad. The Magog campground tends to be crowded during
the summer season. I can't remember if there were bivy sites at the hut,
nor can I remember the name of the hut, but I believe there were bivy sites
there.

The route up the headwall south of Lake Magog was extremely crumbly when
we did it, since it had rained heavily for the entire prior week. We had
a lovely day but the soil just above some hairy cliffs was tricky to
negotiate. It rains there quite a bit. We reached the glacier, then
turned back to try another approach east of the hut. On the glacier,
we got bombarded by small stones whizzing down the steep glacier at
enormous velocity. We were dodging the ones we could see every few
seconds. Not too fun, so we decided to abort the climb and go down
the snow chutes below the hut. The snow was collapsing rather badly
over the torrential melt water coming down the center of the headwall.
We had a ball leaping over gaping sink holes and eventually finding a
way underneath the snow alongside the glacial torrent. Of course there
were signs warning you to stay off the snow chutes, but when you're having
fun, caution sometimes gets thrown to the wind.

By and large, if you stay on the normal route and do the North Ridge, and
get good weather before and during your climb, you'll have a great one
ahead of you. I wish you the best, and wish I could be with you. It's
a climb I would attempt to do a second time. It is gorgeous country, most
of it, even the approach, is out in the open or above tree-line.

The route is, I would rate, safe, but still dangerous - definitely exciting
and very rewarding. I would love to see the views from the top, though
what I saw of it was absolutely stunning, nonetheless. Pray for good
weather.

We saw a great deal of wild life, bears (along with their scat on the trails),
snowy white owls, goats, marmots, picas, and the like. We saw a grizzly at
Wonder Pass down a bit on the Lake Marvel side. Lake Marvel, like Crater
Lake, is deep blue, or was when we were there. It is an impressive sight.

--
"whether to paddle with oar against the flow is the question" -SM
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