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Note 44.313 MOUNT-L 313 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 126 lines 31-JAN-1994 08:28
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 126 lines 31-JAN-1994 08:28
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From: STENAR::STENAR::MRGATE::"X400::1=de::2=d400::3=tr::5=edu::4=metu::4=cc::4=vm::6=MOUNT-L" 28-JA
To: CUPIDO::STRITAR
CC:
Subj: High altitude problems

From: NAME: Mountaineering Discussion List MOUNT-L
FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>
To: NAME: Multiple Recipients of
FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>

RFC-822-HEADERS:
Comments: To: mount-l@vm.cc.metu.edu.tr

Date: 28-Jan-1994
Posted-date: 28-Jan-1994

------------------earlier post----------------
Subject: RE: High altitude medical lit.

Welcome to MOUNT-L, Dr. Houston! For those of you who don't know him,
Charles S. Houston is THE authority on altitude and its effects. His
book, "Going Higher", will tell you all you need to know in language
that you can understand.
Tanner@ucs.indiana.edu

Charlie Houston is also the author of the article in Scientific
American, "Mountain Sickness", October 1992.

---------------end of earlier post-------------

Well, Charles, your cover has been blown. That's what happens when you
establish a name for yourself as a leading authority in the field of
high altitude research. I have to praise you for your book GOING HIGHER.
I was kinda' hopin' nobody else would identify you and you'd be able to
squeeze out some pertinent information from the list members experiences
without anyone being self-conscious. You win some, you lose some. At
least you got one response before exposure.

GOING HIGHER is a valuable resource for climbers going to high altitude,
and, as Tanner has pointed out, is written in down-to-earth, real-people
language and terminology. This book was given to me by a very good
friend who subscribes to this list, Marc Connolly, and I have made
judicious use of it in my climbing career.

I have been very fortunate to have avoided AMS, HAPE and HACE almost
entirely over the space of 38 years of climbing. Only once, on Mt.
McKinley, did I experience general lassitude, loss of appetite, nausea,
and only above 18,500 feet. The first summit attempt, a little above
Denali Pass, two of our five-member team picked up AMS (at least we
think it was that and not HAPE) and immediately descended to our high
camp at 17,200 feet. I was one of those two. Feeling better the next
morning, three of the five of us struck out again for the summit. At
the same elevation, 18,500 feet, I experienced the exact same symptoms
but foolishly pressed on, even though I was dry-vomiting on the football
field just beyond the Archdeacons Tower, some 500 feet below the 20,300-
foot summit. A storm moved up to the Pass and soon engulfed us.
Fortunately, it only settled over the summit in the form of a lenticular
cloud. Two hours later, we popped below it and got out of near-whiteout
conditions, as least as near as I ever want to duel with it. I was leading
the expedition and had the good sense to have someone else lead us
through the storm back to the Pass in the middle of the night. I
found that I was disoriented somewhat and at times could barely see my
boots. We plodded downward and reached the 17,200-foot campsite after
21 hours of continuous climbing.

Even though we were well-acclimatized, having spent 25 days ascending
the mammoth peak, we experienced a touch of high altitude illness above
Denali Pass. We recovered fully by the time we reached the 14,200-foot
camp where the High Latitude Research Team was stationed, though they
had dismantled their shelters and left the headwall area by the time
we got there, having climbed it late in the season. So, we were on our
own. I hate to think what would have happened to us if we were forced to
bivouac in an ice cave while waiting out a vicious storm above that
17,200-foot camp, feeling as bad as we felt. I might have been just
another HAPE statistic, looking for a doleful entry in ACCIDENTS IN NORTH
AMERICAN MOUNTAINEERING!

Willie Hunt is right, climbers must take calculated risks, but high altitude
health risks are not worth the price. On hindsight, I should have had
the good sense to turn back instead of pushing my body beyond its limits.
I developed heart problems shortly after the climb, which may have
nothing to do with that high altitude caper on Mt. McKinley, which leads
me to a question for the medical wizards on the list. Can pacemaker
patients function well at high altitude? By high, I mean up to 16,000
feet. I had a dual chamber model put in over the Christmas holidays and
expect to continue normal climbing activity in New Zealand during May of
this year. I will probably have to moderate my uphill pace even more.
Since I have no pathological, structural damage to the heart, I assume
that further mountaineering will not put me at unreasonable risk of
something more serious. My sea-level cardiologists here really know
nothing about high altitude matters. Charles, have you run into this
issue in your research activities? Are there other climbers out there
with pacers implanted? My friends now call me the TIN MAN, as I slowly
convert to a bionic existence. I can't imagine life without mountain
challenges, so I will venture forth, as no doubt will you.

Sorry, I got slightly off topic and probably a bit too personal.

I'd like to hear of more serious physical ailments at high altitude from
climbers on this list. I've never met anyone who has had repeated bouts
of HAPE/HACE nearly every time they go high, though I suspect it does
happen. But, you'd have to be a masochist to keep going back for more of
a beating. So, do mountaineers have a streak of masochism in them? Let
the masochists come forward!

--
"whether to paddle with oar against the flow is the question" -SM
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