četrtek 18.april 2024 - 07:13 Informacije |
Razmere v gorah |
RSS podatki
Vseh zadnjih 20 prispevkov Iskanje po bazi podatkov
Novejši prispevki: (30)
|
Note 44.318 MOUNT-L 318 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 122 lines 31-JAN-1994 08:29 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 122 lines 31-JAN-1994 08:29 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- From: STENAR::STENAR::MRGATE::"X400::1=de::2=d400::3=tr::5=edu::4=metu::4=cc::4=vm::6=MOUNT-L" 28-JA To: CUPIDO::STRITAR CC: Subj: Re: High altitude problems From: NAME: Mountaineering Discussion List MOUNT-L FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR> To: NAME: Multiple Recipients of FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR> RFC-822-HEADERS: Comments: To: MOUNT-L@vm.cc.metu.edu.tr Date: 28-Jan-1994 Posted-date: 28-Jan-1994 Well, I must admit that I really shot myself in the foot regarding Dr. Houston, so I will try to patch up the damage. I have read some of Dr. Houston's works and I have no idea why the name didn't ring a bell initially. I guess it has to do with the fact that I am really bad with names. Also, mountaineering and related activities are strictly recreation for me, since I am a electrical engineer employed in a professional staff posistion here at Indiana University's computer science department. Don't blame others here at IU for my stupidity. I may know some of them but I am in no way connected with their research. > Stuart Milligan writes: > > Willie Hunt is right, climbers must take calculated risks, but high altitude > health risks are not worth the price. I think I may have not explained the Cotopaxi stituation well. Alex and I didn't consider the stituation to be a problem until we were alreadly on the summit. Understand that Alex is a second year medical student and has much more knowledge about altitude problems than most climbers, myself included. Don't get me wrong, he is no expert, but neither is he a lay-person either. Alex realized at the summit that he was in trouble, and so we spent a minimum of time there before rapidly decending. I didn't have a problem except if my natural breathing response was interrupted. Since I was breathing at 40 to 60 breaths/min, anything like talking or drinking was a problem. I didn't consider this breathing rate to be abnormal for me since on all climbs above about 3000m (10000 feet), I climb at a rate limited by my breathing at 60/min. The first time I climbed with Alex he was concerned that I might have HAPE, but upon resting my breathing rate returned to normal and there were no symtoms of HAPE. Alex still doesn't understand why I don't have nausea problems breathing at 60/min for hour on end. I don't either, but it works for me. Any comments? One point, I find interesting, is our rates of climb. Below 4000m Alex can out climb me aerobicly and he should since his sea-level VO2 max is higher than mine. However from 4000m to 5000m thing even up. Above 5000m I definitely take the lead. It was fun to actually get to tug on Alex for a change. Another point is my change in aerobic conditioning after spending time at high altitude. Normally, I can crank out 225 watts for 30 minutes on my stationary ergometer, which is around 90% VO2 max. But after returning from Ecuador I couldn't do 200 watts for 30 minutes and had trouble with 180 watts. I realize that this is in no way scientific, but I have noticed similar but smaller effects after other trips. There are many possbile reasons for this, but it seems to me that at high altitude I simply can not exercise at a level sufficient to maintain my normal aerobic condition. Does this seem reasonable or am I way off base? > Stuart Milligan writes: > > I'd like to hear of more serious physical ailments at high altitude from > climbers on this list. I've never met anyone who has had repeated bouts > of HAPE/HACE nearly every time they go high, though I suspect it does > happen. But, you'd have to be a masochist to keep going back for more of > a beating. So, do mountaineers have a streak of masochism in them? I wonder about that every time I climb for 12 hours with a 80 lbs pack, or go on a 90 mile bike ride, or go caving for 20 hours, and these activities are tame compared with some of the ultra endurance events I know about. I wonder sometimes if hard labor in a prison camp wouldn't be physically easier than the usual mountain trip I do, since I usually go from 143 lbs to 137 lbs even though I eat much more and much higher fat food too. Why is it that just after a nasty winter trip where I was lucky not to get frostbite because I could barely keep my feet and hands warm at -20 F, I gladly go out ice climbing in -10 F weather with a strong wind? Or how about torturing my muscles and tendons on 5.11 rock climbs, only to do it the next day and the next so that soon I can torture them on 5.12 climbs? What about continuing to go back to the same cave with a nasty 1200 foot crawlway at the entrance? I see a common thread here and it doesn't look good. Masochist? Who knows, but I see this same behavior in all avid caving, climbing, moutaineering people I get to know. Some don't take it as far as I do, and others much, much further. I have met people who continue to climb to high altitudes only to get AMS every time, so I have no doubt that there are some people who would keep going back again and again even getting HAPE as long as they physically could. Willie Hunt PS Someday, I may gain as much mountain experience as many on this group, but I have noticed that in the past 10 years my tolerance for self torture has increased by leaps and bounds and I am afraid of where this might lead. 2 years ago I had no idea I would be climbing mountains much less 20000 foot ones. I wonder what I will being doing in next 2 years? A) My wife and I have kids and I become overweight and inactive B) Continue at my present level, doing a few hundred more caving and climbing outings and about 5 to 20 more mountain peaks. C) Meet an untimely demise, because of excess in B). D) None of the above. PPS Sorry if my ramblings are boring to any of you.
|
---gora
3.138.102.178(0)
1113739 (624521,193,489025)
1077263 (604736,66,472461)
razmere.e-gora.si