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Note 44.416 MOUNT-L 416 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 91 lines 3-AUG-1994 07:51 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 91 lines 3-AUG-1994 07:51 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Subj: Logan, Rainier, and Squamish Date: 19-Jul-1994 Posted-date: 19-Jul-1994 Our Mt. Logan expedition was cut short to 18 days from the planned 44 days mainly because of personnel problems, but still it was an amazing trip. I still don't understand how we wound up taking 3100 ls of stuff to the glacier. Sure there was 900 lbs of food, 3.45 Km of fixed line, 11 tents, etc., but 3100 lbs? We had plently of fun with crevasses, avalanches and rock fall. Even sleeping on a glacier that groans every once in a while was different than my usual trip. It just reminded everyone what they were really sleeping on. Alan got my award for the most excitement, as he got caught in an avalanche while on the fixed line. Fortunately, he was near a station where he could crouch down behind the station's rock and avoid the full blunt of the avalanche, he only got pounded by snow (no rocks), and the total force didn't rip out the fixed line or rip him apart. My most exciting moments weren't quite as extreme but it easily could have been me on that fixed line as I was rappeling down just after him. I did get hit 5 times on the helmut from rock fall, and punch through one crevasse's snow bridge. Even stuff like doing a 820 foot rappel on a single piece of 8mm while untangling the rope in an avalanche chute and wondering about what would happen if an avalanche came down the chute did keep me thinking. Even the grunt work like the 50 miles of glacial hauling and over 2 miles of self belay or rope ascending I did was fun too. The weather was very mild as it didn't get much below 20 F and winds wer never more than 10 MPH, but since we didn't get to the ridge top we were spared high winds and colder temps. Most of the days were prefectly clear and from advanced base camp at 7800 feet on a small spur of the Seward glacier the central summit at 19500 feet was the promient feature to the north some 5 miles from camp horizontally. The huge hanging glaciers, such as the ones on Logan's south face, with the bluish ice exposed added to the view in a way I can not describe. St. Elias at 18000 feet was promient feature to the south west across the 20 mile wide Seward glacier. What a view! The scale of these mountain defies explanation. It even defies you own senses being there. The magnificent beauty continued below ground too. I rappeled into 2 crevasses, one over 100 feet whose formations of peeled ice and ice cycles were truely amazing. I don't want to get into the main reasons for our retreat as it would involve character bashing (or at least it would be viewed that way) and that's not why I went. After returning to Seattle, I had extra time so I went to Mt. Rainier. I couldn't get any of my Logan cohorts to go, so I went solo to camp Muir to hook up with some others for the glacier travel. I hooked up with 2 other climbers but they bailed at 13000 feet when one of them was too exhausted to continue. I opted to continue solo since the glacier snow bridge hazard was minimal and was certainly less of a problem than being pulled over a cliff below a steep snow climb by someone you might be roped to. I easily made the summit and for 45 minutes I had the whole crater to myself with perfectly clear skies and a strong 30 MPH wind. Rainier truely is a beautiful mountain, it's just too bad that the high traffic makes climbing it a zoo for many. Since I went on a weekday, and I got ahead of all the other groups that morning, the typical weekend frenzy was not my experience at all. In fact, for almost 2 hours I saw no one at all, until the guided group showed up (about 15 people). I was surprised though, that there really was almost no visible signs of the high traffic execpt for the very beaten down path, wands, and something else unpleasant lurking frozen near a rock in the crater. Someone didn't blue bag it! I was very glad I went to Rainier. Even though it was only a 33 hour trip from car to car and wasn't technical in rock snow, or ice (except for glacier travel), it was a very nice 9000 foot climb to the summit at 14400. I still haven't figured out why I took 90 lbs to camp Muir. Since my brother and family had just gotten to Vancouver for a 5 week working vacation, I visited with him as well. We went up to Squamish and climbed on the Chief. It is a massive 2000 foot tall hunk of granite that offers excellent multi-pitch (even big wall) trad and sport rock climbing. We climbed a bunch of 5.8 5.9 pitches on the Apron (a lower slab) which were really nice. If you are every in the area, I highly recomend spending time climbing there. I wish I had spent a week, or mabey a month, but, sigh, I needed a partner who would last for more than a day, and I really should get back to work. After being gone a month and doing nothing but climbing, I came back to, you guessed it, more climbing. I went to our local wall on Friday, and spent all weekend climbing in the Red River Gorge in KY. Of course I will go today to our local wall again. It's going to be hot (90 F), but what the hell I never seem to get enough climbing. How about you? Mabey with luck I can work back up to the 5.12 yellow point I almost had before I went off to Logan. Willie Hunt
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