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Note 44.434 MOUNT-L 434 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 38 lines 29-SEP-1994 07:52
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 38 lines 29-SEP-1994 07:52
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Subj: Re: screws

Date: 29-Sep-1994
Posted-date: 29-Sep-1994

> Most of what I do is alpine ice: eg white ice, full of air, and the end
> product of the season's firnification. BIG threads = more piece of mind,
> thats why I'm thinking about BD or Charlet Moser.
>
> Quality at at an affordable price ;-)
> Any alternative sugestions?

Have you looked at the prices from MEC (Canadian Coop)? I don't have
the catalog handy but they have good prices, especially on European
equipment, and they sell BD and Charlet Moser.

Also, have you looked at the Russian screws? They are only slightly
smaller diameter and the threads are just as deep. In poor ice I
would be inclined to put in more screws, as this will greatly reduce
lead fall forces by reducing the fall factor. Of course, putting in
more screws may cause you to fall, where you wouldn't if you put in
less. If you really want peace of mind, just TR the ice. Yes, I know
it's not always possible or desirable but it sure makes for a relaxing
day on the ice.

Another suggestion is to actually test your pro with backed up
deliberate lead falls. This can be very educational, as you will see
what holds and what doesn't. It is a bit hard on the rope, gear and
the climber sometimes.

Willie Hunt

PS

If you really what to get stuff cheap, you could go work for a store
or a climbing school. Employees get pro deals which are approx 1/2
list for most manufacturers. Since I teach for our IMU outfitters, I
can get pro deals, but I can not sell the gear I buy that way.

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