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Note 44.487 MOUNT-L 487 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar, IJS,(61)-1885-450" 112 lines 12-JAN-1995 08:10
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar, IJS,(61)-1885-450" 112 lines 12-JAN-1995 08:10
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Subj: Mt Silverheels

Date: 11-Jan-1995
Posted-date: 11-Jan-1995

I'm almost embarrassed to write this trip report. Though we all made it to
the summit and back again, shared a great comradery and have a great
adventure to share, the overall trip was nothing to boast about. However,
maybe someone who is reading this report will learn from it and hopefully
avoid a similar incident.
It started Saturday morning, January 7th, with four of us; Bob
Broeking, Steve Gladbach, Tom Vervaeke and myself. We had decided to climb
Mt Silverheels (13,822ft), the 96th highest peak in Colorado, and as we
pulled away from my house I was informed of a winter storm warning for the
central mountains. I had checked the weather the night before but the
forecast had changed. However, in good spirits and frivolity we continued
on our way. Looking back I'm reminded of the words of my Basic
Mountaineering School instructor; "When the weather doesn't look good
always have a contingency plan such as hanging out at the local brew pub".
But, we felt that we could continue on until things looked bad enough to
turn around.
We started the climb around 9:00 with light snow and a noticeable wind.
At about 500ft we topped out on a ridge into very gusty wind. As we
continued to climb we were often blown sideways. However, the temperatures
were not bad and, other than the annoyance of not being able to hear each
other over the howling wind, things weren't too bad. We decided to take the
slightly longer route, 7 miles round-trip with 3400ft elevation gain,
because of it's gentler approach. Steve, who had climbed Silverheels once
before, suggested an approach from the northwest up a couloir. We were
hoping to avoid some of the wind until we made our final approach. As we
circled around to the couloir we lost 200ft in altitude. At this point we
could hear an eerie loud hum in the distance. We decided that it must be
the wind whistling through the wires of the power poles nearby. We started
the ascent of the couloir, being fortunate to avoid some wind and that the
snow was firmly packed.
When we reached the end of the couloir we were able to remove our
snowshoes. The wind returned with awesome force, but with it at our backs
it was still just a nuisance. However, we did voice our dread to turn
around into the wind when we returned. Periodically the sun shone through
and gave us a false sense of security. Everyone felt they had good energy
and would have no problem with the final ascent. From here it was a very
gradual ascent along a big grassy/rocky mountain top. No problem! Until
about 25ft from the summit, Bob, Steve and I were caught by such a gust of
wind that we had to drop to the ground to avoid being knocked over. I
waited awhile for a break and then scrambled to the rock shelter (wall) at
the summit. We had all been taken by surprise with the ferocity of the wind
and decided it was best to put on further wind protection and head back down
right away. But, the storm must have blown through just at this time.
Every time we attempted to stand we were blown over. We estimated that the
wind was a constant 90-100 mph but we don't know for sure what strength it
takes to topple a 210 lb man with a heavy pack. We later heard reports of
sustained winds from 85-115 mph, so we are probably close in our estimate.
After several futile attempts to stand, I decided to conserve my
strength and stay on the ground. This was most uncomfortable as the wind
was blowing snow and ice into my face as a sandblaster would. I assumed
everyone else was in the same boat, though I didn't want to look up to find
out. For a moment I really began to worry that the wind wouldn't let up for
awhile and I was not clothed enough to lay dormant in the battering wind for
long. Plus, I didn't know of any way to add clothes. Thinking back now, I
probably could have sought some shelter behind the rock wall. But, the next
thing I new Bob had crawled over to me and shouted to try to crawl off the
mountain.
I wish I could have a video tape of this event because it would have
been quite funny now to see us attempting to crawl off of the mountain. It
wasn't funny at the time because, for one thing, crawling over rocks on your
knees was not the least bit comfortable. However, at least you felt like
you were getting somewhere and not totally incapacitated. Every so often I
would again attempt to stand to no avail. Eventually, it appeared that Bob
and Steve were able to stand somewhat erect. My lighter weight at this
point was a definite disadvantage because I never managed to leave the all
fours position. Then, Steve grabbed by arm and the two of us in union were
able to stagger down enough to leave the main force of the wind.
At this point we all were able to independently travel and were in a
great hurry to get as far down as possible. We made it to the top of the
couloir and proceeded to glissade down. When we could glissade no more we
had left the brunt of the wind and could now breath a sigh of relief. I
found my sunglasses that I thought had been blown off the mountain (I had
forgotten my goggles) and realized quickly that they were completely iced up
and totally useless. By this time it was snowing steadily and everyone
commented on my ice caked eyelashes. But I didn't care, I had made it down.
Now we had to ascend the 200ft that we had initially descended. We
plotted a course and broke trail through about 2ft of snow in spots. On our
final ascent Steve suggested traversing under a 150ft southeast facing 30
degree slope. I had been eyeing a more benign slope to the left and
suggested it. Tom and I had taken an avalanche course about a month before
and one of the things that had been emphasized was not to be fooled by a
short slope. However, when I'd called the avalanche hotline on Friday, the
avalanche danger was low. But the wind was from the northwest and there
could have been considerable snow loading that occurred. Steve thought his
route was ok and since he's far more experienced than I (he has climbed Mt
Mckinley and other high mountains) I went along. We were almost to the
middle of the slope when I heard Bob screaming. At first I thought he was
clowning around or practising some rescue efforts (as we have done before on
previous climbs). As I turned to look at him I realized he was yelling the
word 'SLIDE'! I waited no longer and immediately retraced my steps as fast
as one can on snowshoes. Steve was close behind me and I did not stop until
I had reached safety. Then we looked back to where the slope had
avalanched. You could definitely see the obvious crown at the top where the
avalanche had started. Above the crown was another fracture line and below
was the churned up snow that had broken loose. If we had been caught in it
we probably would only have been knocked down but the near escape was
humbling. We quickly decided to vacate the area towards the previously
recommended route.
Fortunately from here there were no further mishaps and a very hungry
and glad to be alive group made it to the car around 3:00. We then went
straight to the town of Alma and to Alma's Only Bar where in great euphoria
we ordered pizza, beer and hot drinks. The company and socializing can
really be great with people that you've crawled with together. As much as I
enjoyed myself I wouldn't recommend it as an ice breaker. Hopefully, next
time I will head for that brew pub in Breakenridge and save the climbing for
one of those many spectacular days in Colorado.

---gora
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