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Note 44.299 MOUNT-L 299 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 92 lines 31-JAN-1994 08:26
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 92 lines 31-JAN-1994 08:26
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From: STENAR::STENAR::MRGATE::"X400::1=de::2=d400::3=tr::5=edu::4=metu::4=cc::4=vm::6=MOUNT-L" 26-JA
To: CUPIDO::STRITAR
CC:
Subj: Re: High altitude discussions

From: NAME: Mountaineering Discussion List MOUNT-L
FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>
To: NAME: Multiple Recipients of
FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>

RFC-822-HEADERS:
Comments: To: MOUNT-L@vm.cc.metu.edu.tr

Date: 26-Jan-1994
Posted-date: 26-Jan-1994

> If any of those on this list are interested in discussing illness and
> wellness on high mountains, or knows of any existing discussion group
> where we could look at these subjects, please tell me I would like to
> look at any data or any specific materials that may not get into the
> medical literature.
>
> charles houston
>

I am sure that some of the people here at IU can give much insite to
this problem. I have picked up a few things from them, and have some
experience with it. I got back 2 weeks ago from Ecuador where I
climbed 3 peaks, went to the basecamp of a 4th, and generally was
between 6000 to over 20000 feet the whole time I was there.

I live here in Indiana at 800 feet which is almost sealevel from high
altitude viewpoint. When we went to Ecuador in less than 48 hours we
went to the refugio at Cotopaxi at 4800m (15750 feet). Upon getting
there I could tell that thing were just not right with my body. I
didn't have any headache or other symtoms, but any exertion resulted
in slight dizziness because of a lagged breathing response. My
resting heart rate was around 100, where normally at home it's in the
50's. After 4 hours, my heart rate had dropped to around 95. I still
felt similar. After sleeping for 3 hours, I felt worlds better. My
heart rate was down to 80. Alex and I had decided the evening before
not to do the summit climb that evening, but instead to spend an extra
day at the refugio. However, that night at midnight I felt so much
better, I wanted to go up, so I did. I didn't want to go to the
summit but I did want to check out the nighttime view. I followed
some germans up to 5100m (16730 feet). I chopped a seat and sat down
to enjoy the view, watch the other climbers come up and see how I
felt. Resting heart rate at 5100m was around 85. After 30 minutes I
headed back down. The next evening we started our climb to the
summit. I didn't feel as good from the start, because I had gotten
something like a cold, but the only symtom was nasal congestion. Upon
climbing, things went well until about 5400m (17700 feet). Around
that altitude I noticed that if I was distracted from breathing (IE
talked to Alex) I would start getting a headache. Above there rapid
breathing all the time was needed to prevent from getting a headache.
In a total of 5 hours, when we reached the summit at 5897m (19384
feet), rapid breathing was critical for me. Alex was having more
trouble because he had to force himself to breath faster to not get a
headache, but the faster breathing cause nausea. My natural breathing
rate was fast enough for me, but any distraction caused me to get a
headache. We both knew we were pushing it, and decided that a rapid
decent was in order. After getting down to 5200m things were much
better. At the hut 4800m everything was back to normal, well at least
for the hut.

After being in Ecuador mostly above 3000m (9800 feet) for 2 weeks we
went to Chimborazo. The refugio is at 5000m (16400 feet) there. We
both felt a little strange again, but nothing like Cotopaxi. The
weather was lousy the 1st night, so we went the 2nd. By the 2nd night
the intestinal disorder that I had gotten 5 days earlier flared up
again and I had intestinal pain. I decided to climb anyway. Because
of the fog, we followed another group up to and just on the glacier.
We spent 1 hour on the 1st 200m and another on the next 50m because
the group spent a long time putting on crampons and roping up. At
this point we left the group behind and headed up swiftly. I found
the climb to be much easier with regards to breathing. In a total of
7 hours we were on the higher summit at 6310m (20703 feet). I felt
much better than I did on Cotopaxi. I wasn't getting any headache
when I was talking to Alex. I ate and drank water, and generally
didn't have a problem. After 45 minutes or so, of watching the sun
rise and enjoying the view, we headed down.

My point to all of this is that even though I did OK with a rapid
accent to high altitude, proper acclimatization made everything much
easier. In fact in made high altitude comfortable for me. I felt
like I could have slept on the summit of Chimborazo, where I knew I
couldn't on Cotopaxi.

Willie Hunt

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