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Note 44.411 MOUNT-L 411 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 60 lines 1-JUN-1994 08:36
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 60 lines 1-JUN-1994 08:36
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: STENAR::STENAR::MRGATE::"X400::1=de::2=d400::3=tr::5=EDU::4=METU::4=CC::4=VM::6=owner-mount-l"
To: CUPIDO::STRITAR
CC:
Subj: Smith Rock info...

From: NAME: Mountaineering Discussion List MOUNT-L
FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>
To: NAME: Multiple recipients of list MOUNT-L
FUNC: edu <6=MOUNT-L@4=VM@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>

A more recent word about the state of climbing at Smith.....

I highly recommend Smith to anyone interested in climbing. Good folks,
great routes, solid rock (don't believe the hype), and good facilities.

Redpoint climbers supply is still in business. You cannot go to Smith
wihtout stopping at Juniper Junction ( I don't know the real name of the
place) to get some huckleberry ice cream. This stuff is so widely known
that I;ve heard that the european climbing guides recommend the
huckleberry. Necessary on hot E. Oregon summer days.

On to the climbing:
Good solid routes, more bolted routes than you're likely to find anywhere.
Most importantly, even the trad routes have bomb-proof bolts (and often
slings) at the top. The dihedrals is the most popular area. Insufferably
hot at mid-day, but prickling with some of the most known climbs in the US.
BUT - do not discard the "back side". Over asterisk pass, on the trail to
Monkey Face are many great climbs, from highly recommended easy runs
(Spiderman 5.7 - 3 pitches, really fun roof at the end) to desperate claw
routes.

But please do us locals a favor. With the current popularity of climbing,
and the new showers (hot!) that our fees paid for - a massive crowd of new
folks has stopped into Smith. Unfortunately, with the new influx of
climbers have come a bunch of folks who dont' give a damn about how the
area looks after they leave.

Pack out your tape. Maybe pick up a can or two. Sorry to wax political, but
on my last trip I spent about as much time kvetching about the no-trace
ethic as I did climbing. Sorry - I'm getting old.

Seriously though - the climbing's great. Get an early start if you're
coming in the summer. Climb early, go into town for lunch, then climb late.
Sunstroke be damned! Careful of the approaches to some climbs. erosion has
taken hold and the approaches are a treacherous as the routes in some
areas. Mostly on the beginner routes though - lots of spectators
boot-skiing.

And - I NEVER heed this advice - you might want to consider a *gasp* helmet
if it's really crowded. There's loose gravel and pigeon..uh...traces at the
top of most climbs. Have fun!

MM

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| "It's not what you look like, when you're doing what you're doing;It's |
| what you're doing when you're doing what you look like you're doing" |
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| mwmindpx@netcom.com Mark W Myers Beaverton, OR |
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