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Note 44.435 MOUNT-L 435 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 56 lines 29-SEP-1994 07:52
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 56 lines 29-SEP-1994 07:52
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
From: STENAR::STENAR::MRGATE::"X400::1=de::2=d400::3=tr::5=edu::4=metu::4=cc::4=knidos::6=mountainee
To: CUPIDO::STRITAR
CC:
Subj: Re: screws

From: FUNC: edu
NAME: mountaineering <6=mountaineering@4=KNIDOS@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>
To: NAME: Multiple recipients of list
FUNC: edu <6=mountaineering@4=KNIDOS@4=CC@4=METU@5=EDU@3=TR@2=D400@1=DE@X400@STENAR>

RFC-822-HEADERS:
Errors-To: metin@knidos.cc.metu.edu.tr
Originator: mountaineering@knidos.cc.metu.edu.tr
Precedence: bulk
X-Listprocessor-Version: 6.0c -- ListProcessor by Anastasios Kotsikonas

Date: 29-Sep-1994
Posted-date: 29-Sep-1994

>
> >
> > > > I also have some Polish made copies of the Russian screws, that my
> > > > Polish friend got for me in Poland. He payed about $3 a screw. I
> > > > have taking deliberate leader falls on them just to see if they would
> > > > hold, which they did. Somehow $3 doesn't inspire much confidence in a
> > > > piece of pro, but they haven't let me down yet.
> > > >
> > > > Willie Hunt
> > > A great man/Alpinist once said you value your life only as much as you pay
> > > for your pro, But he was rich so Maybe it doesn't really apply
> >
> > Apparently here in the UK you can get russian titanium friends, and
> > there have been warnings around that they break at VERY low forces.
> > So be careful out there!
> >
> One climbing shop in the Denver area has advised that the Russian titanium
> screws, if tied off on a shallow placement, have actually collapsed. Apparently the
> thin wall and material properties of the titanium make them a bit more
> hazardous!
>
> Dan
>

I've seen the Chromoly screws bent up too. Like I said any pro can be
relatively safe or a real hazard depending on how you use it. I don't
lead ice that I can not put the screw in all the way, so for me it's
not a problem, but if you do tie off shallow placements you had better
watch out regardless of what kind of screw you use. Let face it
leading ice is not particularly safe, and the climber can do more for
his own safety than buying the most expensive gear. I in no way claim
that the Russian screws are as strong or safe as the BD's or other
Chromoly screws, just that they do work and are 1/4 the price.

Willie

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