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Note 44.441 MOUNT-L 441 of 517 CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 26 lines 11-OCT-1994 07:56
CUPIDO::STRITAR "Andrej Stritar,IJS,(61)-371-321" 26 lines 11-OCT-1994 07:56
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Subj: Russian ice screws
Date: 29-Sep-1994
Posted-date: 29-Sep-1994

I don't now how many versions there are of the Russian screws,
but I bought 6 over in Scotland several years back. These
particular screws had a large hanger that served as a handle for
installation and removal. The hanger was able to turn the
screw by gripping two flattened surfaces machined into the
head of the screw tube. They seemed to work okay in most cases.
An important exception was during a climb up some hard water ice
on Mt. Katahdin one VERY cold day. The ice was so compact and
the screw had frozen into the ice so tightly that, when we tried
to remove one of the screws, the hanger expanded past the flats,
making the hanger useless for the task at hand. That happened to
two other of those screws that day. We chopped them out, more for
ecological reasons than a desire to save them. Fortunately, we
had plenty of Black Diamonds and Snargs along with us, both of
which worked great. When I got home I used a hammer to recompress
the hanger so it would grip the tube again but have never dared
use the screws for anything more than throwaways since then. The
Russian screws may be great for some conditions, and mine were sure
pretty, but they clearly failed in extreme cold.

(Hello SB)

---pico
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